Username    Password    Login Remember me Cancel Remember me    Forgot your password? Change your password  

Technical Talk -> How to ... step by step.clutch change - Rear Brake Guide
Categories : 
Topic : PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters)
 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 09 Jul 2015 - 00:05   Post title : PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters)
 
Thanks to Daycruiser for his install tips

Remove mufflers and headers

Drill existing bungs out to 21/32". I used 7/16", 15/32", 1/2", Unibit (stepped drill) up to 5/8" and then did the final 21/32" hole. Use plently of cutting oil or some other sort of lubricant, these are large drills. I used Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, because it was already on the work bench


Thread with M18x1.5 tpi tap.


Installed sensor after clearing header of swarf (air compressor worked well)


Re-install headers.

If drilled straight into the existing bung, on the RH side, there is some slight interference with the radiator hose, but it isn't pushing the hose in or flexing the accordion boot of the sensor excessively. If you were to drill your pilot holes angled down(as the header would sit on the bike) you could probably avoid this. I'll watch the trims, if that side seems significantly different then I'll be concerned.

With a little finagling, you can feed the O2 connector up between the frame and the block on the RH side (Probably be easier if the sensor wasn't intalled in the header, just feed it down).


On the LH side, there is a hole in the frame what you can use the provided thig-a-ma-giggy to secure the connector to the frame. I cut the tab on the right off and secured both with a tie wrap around the middle of the connector.




Left hand side:



Right hand side:



Routed the harness behind the cross bracing, but between the fan shroud and the frame, again, secured with a tie wrap...




Further up the frame, also secured with a tie wrap...




Routed up and under the tank, LH side I was able to secure under the factory main harness clip.



Secured to the main harness



AT-300 is secured to the little plastic tray that guides some wires and/or maybe vacuum hoses (don't remember now what all was there) and also around the hard radiator pipe with tie wraps. You could probably also use the Dual-Lock velcro here, but it is solid as is.



Connecting the wires from the O2 sensors is a bit tricky. Make sure you give them a decent tug after tightened down to ensure they are actually seated, a couple of them gave me difficulty. There is a rubber barrier where you insert the wires, I poked "pilot" holes in this with a piece of safety wire before actually inserting the wires from the sensors.

Power Commander is located as per DynoJet's instructions under the RH side cover. The CAN Bus connector from the AT-300 module just reaches at this point. Daycruiser stated he secured his PC V on top of the battery with the Dual Lock due to something else already being in the location recommended by DynoJet, so that is an option as well.

Another good idea from Daycuiser was to leve a USB installed in the PC V so you don't have to remove a bunch of crap if you need to connect to it. I had a nice short one leftover from something else that I installed, it will just be coiled up under the RH side cover, and I have a 10' USB extension cable to use for connecting to it. I had to take the connector for the tail light(?) off it's mounting in order to for the PC to fit in there with the USB attached.



As for the Power to the AT-300, DynoJet recomends a switched power source and provides Posi-Taps to accomplish this. Since I have removed the SAI on my bike, there is the connector for that just hanging about. I cut off the factory connector, and installed a Metri-Pac 280 sealed connector to the wires in the harness and the supply wires for the AT-300. There are smaller sealed connectors available that would have worked better, but I didn't have anything already in the garage like that. I am not 100% certain, but I think this would be the correct mating connector to the stock harness: Link (Male MT090-2L)

Almost looks like it should already have been there....



Connect up the CKPS and the TPS to the PC V harness, and make a messy area, even messier....



For the FI connectors, I actually disassembled the factory connectors and the PC V harness connectors in order to install the rubber boots. The other option, as Daycruiser pointed out, would be to carefully cut the boots and re-install them on the PC V harness using a tie wrap.





 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
Post edited by bbv203 on 09 Jul 2015 - 01:03
 Author 
Post  
 Hornet 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 05/05/2013
Posts : 1,294
Location :  United States
Posted : 09 Jul 2015 - 00:46   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
Nice man ! know it takes as long to get the right pics as it does to do a mod.
Great job.

 
You'll never be first but you might be next
2014 Commander

 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 09 Jul 2015 - 01:04   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: Hornet)
 

Hornet wrote:

Nice man ! know it takes as long to get the right pics as it does to do a mod.
Great job.


Thanks! I figured since I couldn't find any detailed write-ups, I might as well do it while I was in there.

 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 daz 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 12/05/2009
Posts : 7,686
Location :  United States
Posted : 09 Jul 2015 - 05:41   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
Great ! Glad to see you did this, as more tuts like this are needed. About time we had a PCV tut. Can't wait to hear your results ! Hurry up !!!

 
2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
 Author 
Post  
 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 09 Jul 2015 - 07:49   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
Well done!!

Obviously when using the adaptors for the sensors it gives the option of keeping the set up original if you update your Bird, and wish to transfer the sensors and refit the oem ones.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 09 Jul 2015 - 12:16   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: daz)
 
daz wrote:

Great ! Glad to see you did this, as more tuts like this are needed. About time we had a PCV tut. Can't wait to hear your results ! Hurry up !!!



Leethal wrote:

Well done!!

Obviously when using the adaptors for the sensors it gives the option of keeping the set up original if you update your Bird, and wish to transfer the sensors and refit the oem ones.


Thanks guys! Won't be trying much of anything until the weekend, have to go to PHX later today

Can always use adapters to go the other way too, and this way keeps the sensors in the exhaust stream.



 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 09 Jul 2015 - 18:41   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters)
 
Oh if anyone wants to borrow the drill and tap, i'd be willing to loan them out. Probably only be a couple dollars in postage you'd need to cover as opposed to the expense of purchasing them. Cost me almost $60 locally, they can be purchased a lot cheaper on eBay though. Of course; you break, you buy...

 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 10 Jul 2015 - 05:55   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters)
 
I missed a picture in there, and it's too late to edit the post...

If drilled straight into the existing bung, on the RH side, there is some slight interference with the radiator hose, but it isn't pushing the hose in or flexing the accordion boot of the sensor excessively. If you were to drill your pilot holes angled down(as the header would sit on the bike) you could probably avoid this. I'll watch the trims, if that side seems significantly different then I'll be concerned."




 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 Dags 
Set
Reg. Date : 01/11/2013
Posts : 468
Location : N.S.W, Australia
Posted : 11 Jul 2015 - 09:39   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
Excellent write up and pics, brilliant.

 
Dags
 Author 
Post  
 davetac1 
Thunderbird
Reg. Date : 06/09/2010
Posts : 8,379
Location : Haverhill, Ma., United States
Posted : 12 Jul 2015 - 20:30   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: Dags)
 
OR!!!! Instead of goin thru all this work,you could just buy a Rocket III and blow the Tbird,along with a bunch of other machines,away. Dave!!!

 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 12 Jul 2015 - 23:17   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: davetac1)
 
davetac1 wrote:

OR!!!! Instead of goin thru all this work,you could just buy a Rocket III and blow the Tbird,along with a bunch of other machines,away. Dave!!!


What's an afternoon and a six pack? Besides, even if I had gone with a Rocket III, I'd be doing the exact same thing to it....

 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 17 Jul 2015 - 18:15   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
Just to add something, I found a right angle USB on ebay that fits in the spot better. Link

Because of that angled part of the frame, the straight USB was pressed hard against the frame and made the PC V stick further to the rear than I liked.

Kinda hard to see in this pic:


But this was the result when removed:




 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 edmontonstorm 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 12/09/2014
Posts : 1,054
Location : Alberta, Canada
Posted : 28 Jul 2015 - 22:10   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
good write up thanks, so how does the plug fair when the seat goes back on, does it crush the straight plug (autotune plug into PCV)? also does the O2 sensor (right side) get in the way of removing the oil filter at all with any tools? I use the large cap wrench provided by Triumph.



 
Gloss Black 2013 Storm ABS - K&N (seal removed) - Mustang Seat - Hogslayer pipes - PCV-AT300
 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 28 Jul 2015 - 22:25   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: edmontonstorm)
 
The CANBus cable is protected, it sits pretty much right under the frame.

As far as the sensor goes, there is a fair amount of play in the cable, I don't think it will be an issue getting the filter out, but I haven't done an oil change yet either.

 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 bbv203 
Set
Reg. Date : 04/05/2015
Posts : 423
Location : SAN LEANDRO, CA, United States
Posted : 07 Dec 2015 - 16:50   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
FYI edmontonstorm has the bits and tap if anyone else needs to use them, contact him or myself and I can get in contact with him.

 
2010 Blue & White 1600 Thunderbird-K&N Air Filter-BC Hogslayers-Power Commander V and AT-300-Corbin saddles


Thanks to PhotoBucket being extortionist a**hole$, the pictures you are looking for are no longer available in the post. The links below are to Imgur, click the one pertaining to what you were trying to see Link Suzuki TL1000S, Link Suzuki TL1000S-2, Link Triumph Thuderbird
 Author 
Post  
 Dougl 
Chaac
Reg. Date : 13/07/2012
Posts : 544
Location : Reno, Nevada, United States
Posted : 07 Dec 2015 - 23:34   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 

bbv203 wrote:

davetac1 wrote:

OR!!!! Instead of goin thru all this work,you could just buy a Rocket III and blow the Tbird,along with a bunch of other machines,away. Dave!!!


What's an afternoon and a six pack? Besides, even if I had gone with a Rocket III, I'd be doing the exact same thing to it....


I have a Rocket with a PCIII and I had a dyno tuner tune it: 152 max HP, 162 max ft lbs. I would question any tuning option, like autotune, which required my input, in this case, for the A/F targets. A good tuner will tune your PCV for max smooth power under all loads and RPM.



 Author 
Post  
 edmontonstorm 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 12/09/2014
Posts : 1,054
Location : Alberta, Canada
Posted : 08 Dec 2015 - 15:41   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: Dougl)
 
well that's the rub, they tune it for Maximum HP at Max rpm and the like. Not sure about you but I rarely ride in that zone and when I do its limited. A good tune means going through every gear at every RPM etc, not sure where you get it done but here if I had them do that it would be minimum a 800.00 bill at least and even than it will be based on the current temps, humidity, set up and so forth. Not saying its not good, but an autotune if used correctly can get you a very every day life tune.

 
Gloss Black 2013 Storm ABS - K&N (seal removed) - Mustang Seat - Hogslayer pipes - PCV-AT300
 Author 
Post  
 Dougl 
Chaac
Reg. Date : 13/07/2012
Posts : 544
Location : Reno, Nevada, United States
Posted : 08 Dec 2015 - 22:37   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: edmontonstorm)
 

edmontonstorm wrote:

well that's the rub, they tune it for Maximum HP at Max rpm and the like. Not sure about you but I rarely ride in that zone and when I do its limited. A good tune means going through every gear at every RPM etc, not sure where you get it done but here if I had them do that it would be minimum a 800.00 bill at least and even than it will be based on the current temps, humidity, set up and so forth. Not saying its not good, but an autotune if used correctly can get you a very every day life tune.


The PCIII uses only a single trim table of throttle position vs RPM. The tuner, who is also my Triumph dealer, dyno tunes V-twins and other bikes with the Power Commander. I asked him how he does it and he said he fills in that table using all of the gears, as you suggested. It's really smooth just putting around in the lower gears and goes like hell at full throttle. $800 for labor sounds really high. Mine was between $700-800 including the Power Commander.

I've read some stuff on the Rocket forums about autotune and there are problems with it. If it was just a turn-key method that re-committed the trims every 50 miles until it converged on the perfect trim, I'd be all for it.



 Author 
Post  
 edmontonstorm 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 12/09/2014
Posts : 1,054
Location : Alberta, Canada
Posted : 08 Dec 2015 - 23:51   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: Dougl)
 

Dougl wrote:

edmontonstorm wrote:

well that's the rub, they tune it for Maximum HP at Max rpm and the like. Not sure about you but I rarely ride in that zone and when I do its limited. A good tune means going through every gear at every RPM etc, not sure where you get it done but here if I had them do that it would be minimum a 800.00 bill at least and even than it will be based on the current temps, humidity, set up and so forth. Not saying its not good, but an autotune if used correctly can get you a very every day life tune.


The PCIII uses only a single trim table of throttle position vs RPM. The tuner, who is also my Triumph dealer, dyno tunes V-twins and other bikes with the Power Commander. I asked him how he does it and he said he fills in that table using all of the gears, as you suggested. It's really smooth just putting around in the lower gears and goes like hell at full throttle. $800 for labor sounds really high. Mine was between $700-800 including the Power Commander.

I've read some stuff on the Rocket forums about autotune and there are problems with it. If it was just a turn-key method that re-committed the trims every 50 miles until it converged on the perfect trim, I'd be all for it.



But it does. The PCV trims on the fly, it is always adjusting the trims for both cylinders (if using the AT300 wide bands) as you ride, if you wanted to you could always accept the trims after every ride (2 minutes work) but there is no need. As a rule most people settle on something after about 500 klm worth of riding in the summer months. As for using it on the dyno, guys will do that as well, what most dyno guys will do is use the downloaded trim that is already provided free from dynojet on their site, than they will do a 4th gear run through all rpm, make sure that the trims set by dynojet are not running to lien or rich for your area, they might have to change several cells but not many more than that, and then they might tweak the top end to get you the horse power which usually means running at 12:1 or so wide open maybe even richer, again depends where you are, but frankly to me its a sham. If you are running the PCIII I will bet if you look at the free downloads for that unit and look at the trims and compare them to the ones on yours you are not going to see much difference. I hope you do, that would mean you paid for something, but I would not be surprised if you did not. Dealers do it all over the place. I caught mine doing that, put them on the spot, now they owe me some runs.


 
Gloss Black 2013 Storm ABS - K&N (seal removed) - Mustang Seat - Hogslayer pipes - PCV-AT300
 Author 
Post  
 Dougl 
Chaac
Reg. Date : 13/07/2012
Posts : 544
Location : Reno, Nevada, United States
Posted : 09 Dec 2015 - 03:33   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: edmontonstorm)
 
edmontonstorm wrote:

Dougl wrote:

edmontonstorm wrote:

well that's the rub, they tune it for Maximum HP at Max rpm and the like. Not sure about you but I rarely ride in that zone and when I do its limited. A good tune means going through every gear at every RPM etc, not sure where you get it done but here if I had them do that it would be minimum a 800.00 bill at least and even than it will be based on the current temps, humidity, set up and so forth. Not saying its not good, but an autotune if used correctly can get you a very every day life tune.


The PCIII uses only a single trim table of throttle position vs RPM. The tuner, who is also my Triumph dealer, dyno tunes V-twins and other bikes with the Power Commander. I asked him how he does it and he said he fills in that table using all of the gears, as you suggested. It's really smooth just putting around in the lower gears and goes like hell at full throttle. $800 for labor sounds really high. Mine was between $700-800 including the Power Commander.

I've read some stuff on the Rocket forums about autotune and there are problems with it. If it was just a turn-key method that re-committed the trims every 50 miles until it converged on the perfect trim, I'd be all for it.



But it does. The PCV trims on the fly, it is always adjusting the trims for both cylinders (if using the AT300 wide bands) as you ride, if you wanted to you could always accept the trims after every ride (2 minutes work) but there is no need. As a rule most people settle on something after about 500 klm worth of riding in the summer months. As for using it on the dyno, guys will do that as well, what most dyno guys will do is use the downloaded trim that is already provided free from dynojet on their site, than they will do a 4th gear run through all rpm, make sure that the trims set by dynojet are not running to lien or rich for your area, they might have to change several cells but not many more than that, and then they might tweak the top end to get you the horse power which usually means running at 12:1 or so wide open maybe even richer, again depends where you are, but frankly to me its a sham. If you are running the PCIII I will bet if you look at the free downloads for that unit and look at the trims and compare them to the ones on yours you are not going to see much difference. I hope you do, that would mean you paid for something, but I would not be surprised if you did not. Dealers do it all over the place. I caught mine doing that, put them on the spot, now they owe me some runs.



Unfortunately there is no Dynojet map for a Rocket with a full Jardine exhaust and triple K&N filters. I've tried numerous "custom" tunes with tuneboy and none of them come close to my current tune. Most dealers aren't dyno tuners.



Post edited by Dougl on 10 Dec 2015 - 02:02
 Author 
Post  
 tadpole 
Set
Reg. Date : 18/05/2009
Posts : 307
Location : Mandurah, West Australia, Australia
Posted : 25 Apr 2017 - 05:31   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: bbv203)
 
Hi Guys, Some important info for yas.....
I purchased thE AT-300 to fit to my COMMANDER, unable to fit the sensors as there is not enough room because the exhaust is different to the other tbirds, I drilled and tapped out to 18mm but the right hand fouls heavily against the top of the bottom rad hose and the left fouls against the bottom of the radiator so its a no go with major surgery to the exhaust header pipes and I,m not going there grrrrr

So if anyone wants the at-300 its up for sale I paid 380 usd or $415 aust..It wil fit the normal birds but not lt or commander, unused still in box and complete with instructions etc, cheers..Hope this saves someone any grief, Tadpole

 Author 
Post  
 Tal 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 30/01/2015
Posts : 1,074
Location : Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand
Posted : 25 Apr 2017 - 05:37   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: davetac1)
 

davetac1 wrote:

OR!!!! Instead of goin thru all this work,you could just buy a Rocket III and blow the Tbird,along with a bunch of other machines,away. Dave!!!


Im Hearin ya Dave!!

 Author 
Post  
 AZCactus 
Taranis
Reg. Date : 01/05/2013
Posts : 4,524
Location : AZ
Posted : 25 Apr 2017 - 09:34   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: Tal)
 
Tal wrote:

davetac1 wrote:

OR!!!! Instead of goin thru all this work,you could just buy a Rocket III and blow the Tbird,along with a bunch of other machines,away. Dave!!!


Im Hearin ya Dave!!

Nope
I like the Thunderbird look.

 
2009 Thunderbird 1700 Big Bore

Post edited by AZCactus on 25 Apr 2017 - 10:02
 Author 
Post  
 Tal 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 30/01/2015
Posts : 1,074
Location : Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand
Posted : 26 Apr 2017 - 06:41   Post title : Re: PC V and AT-300 Installation (No welding, no adapters) (Re: AZCactus)
 
Me too brutha...I would have one of each if I could!!